Pyongyang naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles in chilled beef broth) is becoming a summer trend in LA Koreatown, with three Korean restaurants introducing their unique takes on the dish. This marks a shift in a neighborhood long dominated by Hamhung-style naengmyeon.
Unlike the sweet and tangy broth with chewy noodles typical of Hamhung naengmyeon, Pyongyang naengmyeon features soft buckwheat noodles in a rich, unsalted broth with a distinct buckwheat aroma. Its mild taste can feel unfamiliar at first, but it has gained a strong following in Korea since the 2010s. Renowned Pyongyang naengmyeon restaurants like Eulmildae, Eulji Myeonok, and Woolaeoak sparked its popularity, making it a staple Korean summer dish.
In LA Koreatown, however, there were few options for Pyongyang naengmyeon, leaving many craving the dish. That is changing as three restaurants have launched their own versions, sparking what locals are calling a โPyongyang naengmyeon battle.โ
Gabin Korean Grill, operated by Kaizen Dining Group, was the first to offer Pyongyang naengmyeon after opening last month. Its broth combines rich beef stock from brisket and shank with dongchimi (radish water kimchi) broth for a clean, refreshing flavor. Amy Jang, manager at Gabin Korean Grill, said, โCustomers love the clean taste without heaviness. Many say itโs a style theyโve never experienced in LA.โ
Hyeongje Galbi, a well-known Korean BBQ restaurant, also added Pyongyang naengmyeon for summer. Its noodles, sourced frozen from Chuncheon, are mixed with beef broth and dongchimi broth for a refreshing taste. Owner Buguon Joo explained, โItโs an adaptation to local tastes rather than strictly traditional. We designed it so even customers used to Hamhung naengmyeon can enjoy it comfortably.โ
Meanwhile, Seogwan by Yellowcow Kbbq, a famous Pyongyang naengmyeon specialist in Korea, opened its LA branch on June 26, 2025. It distinguishes itself with 100% buckwheat noodles called โsunmyeon.โ Monica Kim, owner of Seogwan by Yellowcow Kbbq, who has run the Korean BBQ restaurant Hwangso Maeul in Torrance for 27 years, said, โWe have great pride in our meat, so weโre confident in our rich beef broth-based traditional Pyongyang naengmyeon.โ The restaurant also offers varieties like goldeong naengmyeon (mixed with perilla oil) and matbaki naengmyeon.
Once dominated by Hamhung naengmyeon, LA Koreatown now echoes with restaurants declaring, โSummer calls for Pyongyang naengmyeon.โ The ultimate winner of this battle will be decided at the tips of customersโ chopsticks seeking a cool summer delicacy.
BY WONHEE CHO [cho.wonhee@koreadaily.com]
